Solving Common Window Shade Problems

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Home, condo or office, roller-style window shades from Mazer Wholesale offer a lot of benefits. Taking proper care of them will make sure you get years of good service from your investment. Yet sometimes a small problem will arise in having the window shade operating properly. This post is all about solving common window shade problems… complete with videos!

Window shades give you privacy and more… like the ability to control indoor lighting, especially for rooms that face direct sunshine at certain times of day. The good news is that you can usually install them yourself, with only a few basic tools. Read on to learn about taking care of your shades.

First, in case you haven’t seen it yet, we recently did a full blog post on best practises for installing roller window shades. If you need to see that again (or for the first time as you start an installation project), click here. That post contains specific information on measuring your windows for the proper type of installation and a lot more. 

Window Shade Basics – Hardware Mounting Brackets

Pretty much everyone knows how roll-up windows shades work, after they’ve been installed. Pull down on the shade and hold it while it moves to roll back up, and then the shade uses an internal mechanism to stay in place at the level you’ve pulled it down to. As you pull the shade down into place, there’s a coiled spring inside the shade that creates a reverse-action tension… the shade “wants” to spin back, and return itself to a fully wound-up position. 

There’s a locking mechanism inside that prevents that from happening, until you pull on it again. Just a slight tug on the bottom of a shade that’s already been pulled down and the mechanism releases the shade. That allows the coiled-up spring inside to do its thing, and the shade re-winds itself back up and out of your way, until the next time you need it. 

Of course all this only works if there’s something holding the shade in place and not allowing it to freely spin on the mounting brackets. If that happened, the whole shade would spin, and there’s be no spring tension to wind the shade up to the top again, when you want to let in maximum light. 

All this may sound complicated, but it’s not. As long as the spring has something to firmly hold it in place, everything works as planned. And that’s where the mounting brackets come into place, along with the basic design of the shade itself. 

One end of the shade has a simple pin sticking out straight from the end of the rolled-up shade. It simply allows the shade to roll and spin freely. The other side however has quite a different looking pin. It looks like someone took a larger rounded pin and flattened it with a hammer. This design is important, because it holds the internal spring (inside the round body of the shade) in place, allowing it to coil and create that “spring back” energy when you tug on the bottom of the shade to let it roll back up and open. 

Here’s a great video from Andrew Mazer of Mazer Wholesale that shows larger-than-life images of the two different brackets used to hold window shades in place. The video also shows how the brackets can be installed into window frames or on the wall to give flexible options on different ways to hang and install the shades.

Window Shade Troubleshooting #1 – Incomplete Roll Up 

Installing window shades from Mazer Wholesale is usually a simple, D.I.Y. (Do It Yourself) job. Yet after a successful installation job, you may find that the shade does not work exactly “as advertised.” Once scenario is this: While the shade pulls all the way down and stays in place properly, when you want to roll it back up (and let more light into the room), the shade may not completely wind back up, leaving a few inches (or more) of the shade unrolled and blocking your view. 

That’s usually caused by the shade’s inner spring not coiling enough to give the shade the needed tension to “rewind” all the way back up. Fortunately, there’s an easy fix to this. Check out this how-to video from Mazer Wholesale’s Andrew Mazer: 

Window Shade Troubleshooting #2 – Over-Tight Spring

Now on the other hand, it’s also possible that the spring in the window shade may be wound too tightly. This can make it difficult to pull the shade all the way down. It may even completely refuse to extend all the way to the bottom of the window when you pull on it. This is the exact opposite of the problem addressed in the previous video. The good news is that once again, it’s a relatively simple fix. And once again, here’s Andrew Mazer to show you how to solve this particular window shade “challenge.” 

Roll-up window shades are an economical, easy-to-install way to better control light in a room. Mazer Wholesale offers a huge selection of different sizes and styles… way more than any local hardware store or big-box home improvement warehouse. We ship directly to you – no driving to the store, no hassling with out-of-stock sizes and special orders. Call Mazer Wholesale first and get the job done right.  

Installing Window Shades From Mazer Wholesale – An Easy Do-It-Yourself Project

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When it comes to a Do-It-Yourself project that just about anyone can do in just about any home (or office, or home-office, for that matter), hanging interior window shades is very popular. Keep reading for easy, DIY pro tips and help for making window shade installation a breeze.

Tools Needed For Window Shade Installation

One of the reasons installing your own window shades is an easy project is that it takes very few tools, and not a lot of technical skills. Generally speaking, you’re going to need the following for your installation work: 

  1. Screwdriver (flat-headed or Phillips, depending on the installation screws that come with your shades).
  2. Measuring tape. Pro tip: It’s best to use a metal tape, especially if you’re doing the job yourself. That way, you won’t need an extra pair of hands to hold up a not-so-stiff cloth tape for long-reach measurements. 
  3. Power drill. For pre-drilling holes for mounting screws and brackets. You’ll also need the proper-sized drill bits to create those holes. Usually, that means a 3/32” bit for pre-drilling screw holes, and a ¼” bit for the wall anchors.
  4. Pencil. For measuring and marking as needed.
  5. Optional (but probably needed): Set stool or ladder to reach higher window-tops. Using proper caution, of course!

First Things First – Placement and Measuring

Window shades can be installed either inside the window frame, or outside. The good news is that the same brackets can be used, no matter where you want the shades to go in your windows. 

Keep in mind, the size of the window shade you order for your project will depend on that inside / outside decision. If you’re still shopping for size and color options, check out Mazer Wholesale’s huge selection at our online catalog. Click here to start your shopping journey. 

Of course you have many, many choices when it comes to where you buy the window shades for your next project. Many of the big-box department stores, and of course the giant-sized home improvement stores carry window shades. Yet it’s been our experience that most brick-and-mortar stores usually only carry the most popular sizes and styles. That can be a problem when you’re trying to find shades for an older home with non-standard-sized windows (too long, extra-wide, etc.). And it’s not just older homes that may have size “issues.” Many new homes have custom-sized windows that may also need a specially-sized window treatment. 

Here’s another important factor to consider: Will the shades by hanging inside the frame of the window, or outside? That’s important, since it will determine the sizing of the shades you buy. For inside shades, you’ll use that steel tape measure to check the dimensions inside the frame of the window, and leave a little extra room for proper fit, too. 

Here’s where to measure for inside-the-frame shades: 

On the other hand, outside measurements are taken here:

No matter if the shades are going to be installed “inside” or “outside,” it’s going to be very important to have enough extra room between the sides or top of the window and the shade. Fortunately, the brackets that come with most shades are shaped so that you’ll have enough room to fit a fully rolled-up shade at the top of the window. However, you will need to be sure to space the brackets out – width-wise – to have a not-too-tight, not-too-loose, just-right fit. This will leave enough “wiggle room” for the shade to slide easily into place when installing… and if you ever take it out to replace or clean it. 

Best Practices for Installation

Inside Mounting: Allow 1/4″ clearance between top of frame and fully rolled-up shade. This will provide enough clearance to lift the shade into the slotted bracket. Most shades have a spring-loaded tip that can provide up to 3/8″ extra width if needed. That means it can be “squeezed” into place, if things are tight. 

Always insert the pin end into the right side bracket first. As you’ll see with the hardware brackets, they can be flipped around to face in or out… to either allow for a little more or a little less room for the shade. If the brackets are installed facing out, place the pin into the inner hole of the right bracket. If the brackets are installed facing down (as you might do for mounting on the ceiling), place the pin into the outer hole of the right bracket. Push the bracket in to compress the spring, then place the metal tab on the left side of the shade into the slot of the left bracket.

For Outside Mounting / Ceiling Mount: Hold shade to desired position,making sure it is level, and place pencil marks at each end of the roller. Secure brackets. Insert the round pin end into the inner hole of the right bracket. For ceiling mount, insert the pin into the outer hole. Then insert the other end of the shade into the slot of the left bracket.

Keep in mind that no matter if you’re going to be installing the shades on the inside of the window frame or on the outside, the same brackets will do the job of holding them in place. Andrew Mazer of Mazer Wholesale talks about installation options and brackets in this video:

How to Install Inside Mount Shades

The installation process for inside mount blinds may vary slightly depending on your particular shade. These general steps provide an overview for installing inside mount blinds, but always refer to the manufacturer instructions for details specific to your product.

  1. Position the first bracket in the upper corner of the window frame so that it’s level with the wall’s surface. Always check your specific product instructions for the exact placement of the brackets. If your blinds came with a decorative valance, you will need to set the brackets further back into the window opening to allow room for the valance.
  2. Mark the screw locations with a pencil.
  3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 with the second bracket in the opposite corner of the window frame. If you’re mounting into drywall with no studs behind, you will need to use drywall anchors.
  4. Use a steel tape measure or a level tool to ensure the two bracket locations are even.
  5. Use a drill bit – smaller than your screws – to drill pilot holes through your bracket marks.
  6. Screw the brackets in place.
  7. Insert the pin end of the shade into it’s matching bracket, and then the flat-sided end into the open-ended bracket on the other side. You may need to twist / rotate the shade to get the flat “pin” into place. 
  8. Be sure to test that it works properly! 

How to Install Outside Mount Shades

Outside mount window treatments are mounted on the window molding, wall, or ceiling above your window. Outside mount blinds or shades can make your windows appear wider and longer while also providing better light control and privacy options. You might also have to mount using the “outside” method if your windows are not “deep” enough in the frame to allow inside mounts. 

Most of the same instructions from “inside mount” shades (above) apply here, with some special notes on measuring, sizing and spacing: 

  1. Measure above the window first to make sure you have at least 2″ of flat space on the molding or wall.
  2. Next, measure the width you want covered. You should aim for at least 1.5″ of overlap on each side of the window for blinds and shades. The extra width provides more privacy and light blockage. 
  3. Determine the location of the headrail – or top – of the window treatment. This could be installed on the window molding or wall. Mark this spot with a pencil.
  4. Measure the height of each window from the mark you just made to where you want the bottom of your window treatment to rest. Consider if you want your window treatment to extend to the sill or lower. If you have a protruding window sill, it is recommended that it be your bottom placement.
  5. Be aware of obstructions such as doorknobs or molding. If you have obstructions, spacer blocks or extension brackets are available to help your blind or shade extend far enough to avoid protrusions.

Installing window shades on your own may – at first – seem like a big job. And where there are some skills involved, most of the work is in the setup – making sure you’ve measured everything accurately, and purchased properly-sized window shades. There are lots of great resources online (including the Mazer Wholesale YouTube channel) that offer instructions and guidance on how to do the job right. 

Don’t forget that Mazer Wholesale offers great prices on a huge selection of window shades. If you have a special size or other challenge, please feel free to get in touch. We love helping people get the job done right! 

Easy Floor Upgrade – Just Peel and Stick

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Mazer Wholesale Has Popular Nexus and Tivoli Brands – At the Best Prices

It’s an easy floor upgrade, and it’s as simple as peel-and-stick! It’s inexpensive, anyone can do it, and makes a big difference in the way your home looks and feels. If you have one ore more floors in your home or office that are looking a little tired and worn, it’s time for an upgrade. Tivoli and Nexus Planks are the most popular brands, and Mazer Wholesale has the best, lowest prices.

Nexus Peel-and-Stick Flooring from Mazer Wholesale

Best of all, you don’t need to hire a professional or spend a lot of money for this peel and stick flooring. It’s a DIY’ers dream! No matter which brand you choose – Tivoli or Nexus Planks – Mazer Wholesale is your one-stop shop. We’ve been in the wholesale business for 35 years. When it comes to cheap prices and great service, look no further than Mazer Wholesale.

Basically, we offer two brands and styles of peel-and-stick vinyl flooring, also called “planks.” One brand is called Nexus, the other is Tivoli. While similar, they have some different properties and benefits that are worth considering before you start your flooring project. There are many different colors and styles to choose from.

When it comes to pricing and availability, here’s an important note: You can buy these planks at local stores like Wal-Mart and Home Depot, and they’re available online from Wayfair and others. However – and this is important! – consumers who need larger-sized orders (to cover more floor space) will always find that prices are lower at Mazer Wholesale. And, we deliver right to your home or office!

Nexus Vinyl Plank Flooring

  • Tile size: 6” x 36” – packed 10 in a box. Each box will cover 15 square feet of floor.
  • Sold in cartons of 6 boxes, which will cover 90 square feet.
  • Planks are 1.2 millimeters thick. Good for everyday home use.
  • Natural wood-grain finish with a smooth surface. Easy cleanup!
  • Available in 5 different colors / patterns. Click to see each on our online catalog:

Tivoli Plank Flooring

  • Tile size: 6” x 36” – packed 10 in a box. Each box will cover 15 square feet of floor.
  • Sold individually. Buy as many as needed (and a few extra planks, in case of error.)  
  • Planks are 2 millimeters thick. Great for heavier-traffic areas and even light commercial duty.
  • Natural wood-grain finish. Some have a smooth surface, some are textured (embossed.)
  • Available in 8 different colors / patterns. Click to see each on our online catalog:

Benefits of Nexus and Tivoli Peel-and-Stick Flooring

When it comes to D.I.Y. (Do It Yourself) projects around the home, installing Nexus or Tivoli peel-and-stick flooring from Mazer Wholesale is definitely rated “easy.” Like the name says, you simply peel off the backing on the individual flooring “planks” and stick them to the floor. Just like a giant-sized bumper sticker! (Only they last a lot longer and look a lot better…)

You can absolutely upgrade the look of any room, without the difficulty – and expense! – of hardwood or other expensive, labor-intensive flooring. Self-adhesive tile flooring is great for any room in the house, and in the garage, too! Both Nexus and Tivoli planks can be used in any room you choose; the kitchen, dining room, bedrooms, bathrooms, entry / foyer and even basements and garages! In fact, we have several posts and blog posts and videos showing off garage projects created by our customers. Click here for one of our favorites.

Other benefits: vinyl flooring is really very durable. If installed and maintained correctly, it can last more than 10 years. (In fact, Tivoli floor planks from Mazer Wholesale come with a 10-year warranty.) That means these vinyl floor products are a great choice for rooms that get the most traffic.

Cleanup is easy, too. Most vinyl flooring has a wear layer on its surface that resists scratches and stains. It will also do well in rooms that see the occasional spill, like kitchens and powder rooms. For daily cleaning, water is generally all that’s required. Mild soaps can help with weekly or bi-weekly cleaning and an assortment of specialty products are available for deep cleaning your vinyl flooring. No waxing is ever needed.

Installation – the Easy Part!

If you’ve ever tried installing hardwood or ceramic tile flooring, you know how hard it can be. (If you haven’t done any of that kind of installation work, congratulations!) With vinyl planking from Nexus or Tivoli, you don’t need any special tools. A simple razor knife is a must-have, for cutting planks to size as needed. In addition, you’ll want a tape measure for accurate sizing, and a straight edge for cutting perfect lines. At Mazer Wholesale, we hear from happy customers who are being successful with their first DIY project.

These peel-and-stick planks are best installed on a clean, dry surface that’s as free of dust and other small debris as possible. Planks are easily installed on concrete surfaces, as in a garage. Note: if the garage floor is big enough to have expansion joints, then those joints need to be filled and smoothed out first. Check out website for information on how that’s done.

Tile planks can also be installed over some existing flooring, like wood and other vinyl. Again, the most important thing is that the existing surface is clean and dry. In new construction, planks can be installed on bare wood, too.

If you are looking to upgrade a floor in your home, office or commercial space, Mazer Wholesale has what you need. Got questions? Get in touch. Email: – Phone: 800-343-0780.

Showroom-Style Garage Project

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Wow! We’ve seen a lot of great projects from our friends and customers here at Mazer Wholesale, but this one is certainly one of our favorites. Thanks to Vaughn and Tamy C. for sharing these pictures of the project from start to finish.

The project used Mazer Wholesale’s 12″ black and white peel-and-stick floor tiles (Click here for to see these tiles – and more – on our online catalog.) Lots of customer have been using them for racetrack-style / checkered flag floor designs… but there are so many other ways the tiles can be arranged. (Click here for more customer project pictures.)

Check out the transformation of the space – from average (and yes, large) garage space to a classic car showroom… and more!

Getting started: As you can see, you don’t need to do a lot of special preparation on the existing floor. This is a regular concrete floor that’s been thoroughly swept and cleaned. Pressure washing is nice, but NOT required.

Installation going nicely! The tiles are 12″x12″, so they’re easy to position. Remember, these are “peel and stick” tiles, so there’s no messing around with paint-on glues or other adhesives.

Almost done! Tiles are shipped in packs of 10. That’s 120 square feet per pack, with half black and half white tiles in each pack. Customers can definitely install these themselves – no need to hire an expensive installation team. Peel and stick as needed, and use a simple razor knife to cut tiles as needed to finish the job, or fit around edges.

Done! Here’s a few images of the finished project…and the car collection, of course!

But that’s not all! Along with the garage floor, the customer also went full “Happy Days” with a soda fountain-style booth and jukebox! Can’t wait to see the milkshake menu!

To order peel-and-stick tiles from Mazer Wholesale, click here to get started. We have many different designs and colors, and both tile and carpet squares with simple and easy peel-and-stick installation.

Our collection includes not only garage and other floor tiles, but also peel-and-stick tiles that look like wood, granite, marble and lots more.

If you have a project you’re working on and would like to share your results, please feel free to get in touch!